by Pastor Patrick Cho
We have only been in Israel for two days, but it feels like we’ve been here for over a week. I’m so thankful for how Dr. Grisanti has thought through how to maximize our time while we are here. This of course means we walk a lot (I don’t think I’ve ever walked so much in my life!), but the exercise is actually starting to feel good. I may be able to come home in much better shape than when I left (physically and spiritually!).
We began the day with breakfast at the hotel and class at 7:30am. Along with the sightseeing, all that we have been learning has been a bit overwhelming. It really is like drinking out of the proverbial drinking fountain. We have been learning about Old Testament history, New Testament history, modern Israeli history, geography, manners and customs, etc. Class this morning was about getting a better grasp of the city in general. We reviewed its major hills, valleys, gates, water sources, and history. We ended our time of instruction learning some Hebrew songs.
A little after class, we walked along the perimeter of the city, on the city wall (called the Rampart Walk) travelling from the Jaffa Gate to the Zion Gate. Although these were not the original city walls, it was interesting to see the city from that vantage point. Looking down from the walls, it was clear to see how they gave defenders an advantage from sieges and attacks. It will be interesting to go to Jericho later on this trip to learn more about the wall there.
From the Rampart Walk, we headed out to the probable site of the Upper Room and Last Supper. Of course, the original room has been buried over time and a new building has been built in its place, but it was still really cool to know where the room was in relation to other parts of the city and to review what happened there. It was there that Jesus broke bread with His disciples and instituted communion (Luke 22:7ff). He also washed His disciples’ feet and instructed them to humbly serve one another (John 13). The Upper Room was also where Judas left to betray Christ after Jesus offered him bread (John 13:26-30).
From the Upper Room, we went to another high perch overlooking the city from the south. This was at the Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu. This allegedly is the location of Caiaphas’ house. Historically, this would have been where Jesus was tried and Peter denied Christ three times before the rooster crowed twice. Gallicantu literally means “rooster crow” (the Spanish word for rooster is “gallo”), and we could actually hear some roosters in the distance. There really isn’t any archaeological evidence that this site is authentic, but it did offer an awesome view. From the vista, we could see the Temple Mount, the supposed site of the Potter’s Field, and pretty much the entire city south of the Temple. Of particular interest was when Dr. Grisanti walked us through Solomon’s coronation. It was fascinating to see geographically how Adonijah’s failed coup played out with Solomon’s coronation (1 Kings 1). While Adonijah prepared to declare himself king, he would have audibly heard the trumpets blow announcing Solomon’s reign.
After a quick lunch, we headed up the Via Dolorosa (or “The Way of Suffering”) to St. Anne’s Basilica. This is the site of the pool of Bethesda where Jesus healed the man who had been an invalid for thirty-eight years. The pools were surprisingly deep (almost 40 feet!) and you could see where the porticos (or patios) were. The local tradition of the area was that an angel would come and stir the waters and whoever was the first to climb in the pool would be miraculously healed. This man being an invalid was unable to enter the waters first, but Jesus miraculously healed him demonstrating His power, authority, and lovingkindness, but also authenticating His message as God’s Messiah. Of course, the Pharisees were more concerned that this man was carrying his bed on the Sabbath, and they overlooked the entire miracle and Miracle Worker.
From Bethesda, we had to quickly get over to the Museum of the First Temple. This place had artifacts and information about Solomon’s Temple and was absolutely fascinating. It also houses the oldest discovered facsimile of the Old Testament from Numbers 6. It was written on a thin sheet of silver and rolled up as an amulet! This is also the location of a pomegranate that was quite possibly used as a decoration on the priestly gown of Solomon’s Temple. On the pomegranate is engraved, “For the priest of the Temple of —-.” The blank is for the name YHWH. Since the Jews are careful about taking the Lord’s name in vain, you are expected to enter in the blank the word adonai (Lord), Jehovah, or ha shem (the Name).
After the museum, we went to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. There is heavy historical and archaeological evidence that this is the actual site of Jesus’ crucifixion and the empty tomb. The entire church was built in the days of Constantine by his mother Helena, destroyed in an invasion in the 600’s, and then rebuilt by the Crusaders. Inside it evoked mixed feelings in me. It was absolutely humbling and sobering to stand on the ground of the crucifixion and to see the site of the empty tomb. Just to consider historically what took place there was a worshipful experience that I will never forget. But the church is also a gaudy monstrosity of false worship. There are relics and decorations everywhere you see. Everything is covered in gold. But the saddest thing was to see the people there placing their faith in those relics and routines and trying to find God’s grace through them.
We actually didn’t go into the empty tomb because there is about an hour and a half wait just to see it for about a few seconds. But people do it! They wait in line just for the chance to touch the place where Jesus was laid. Dr. Grisanti was quick to remind us that Jesus was only in there for three days. We could certainly look forward more to when we will actually see Him on that last day.
There is a rock at the entrance of the church cut from Golgotha where people kiss the rock and rub their handkerchiefs on it as a way of taking some grace with them. It’s said that those handkerchiefs could aid in healing people or evoking blessing from God. It was just sad to see people weeping over this piece of rock and rubbing their handkerchiefs as if it is going to do some good. To see how greatly lost and misled these people were broke my heart.
At the end of the day, we headed back to the hotel for dinner before visiting a pedestrian district to see some modern shops. We ended up spending some time with team members at a McDonald’s. This was another very full and tiring day, but one that was also full of blessings. The devotionals that Dr. Grisanti has been sharing along the way have been truly encouraging and inspiring. Set against the backdrop of the city, the Word of God truly comes to life.